Chuseok - being free again - Part I

Chuseok - Part I - Haeinsa und Gayasan Nationalpark

(suh) Let's get started!!! Auf in die Freiheit!

Over the Choseuk holiday, several friends and I visited Haeinsa temple. Not far outside of Daegu, this temple is an absolute must see. Originally built in 802, stepping onto the temple grounds is an amazing feeling, especially to someone who has never experienced old East Asian architecture. The temple is placed in the midst of several beautiful mountains, giving it an aura of isolation from the city life that is so close just past the adjacent mountains. Beyond the visual aesthetics of Haeinsa lies the Tripitaka Koreana, a famous artifact of Korean Buddhism that's creation and preservation are truly amazing feats.

After a short bus ride out of Daegu we arrived at Gayasan National Park, where we were greeted by a massive entrance gate covered in vibrant colors and a sign containing several Chinese characters. After paying the entry fee we continued on the bus to our exit point further in the mountains. The entire park was amazing immediately upon entering. Surrounded by mountains on every side, one cannot help but feel truly engrossed. Sadly, you never feel as though you have entirely escaped in nature with so many paved roads around, but you can come quite close to the feeling as you begin hiking up the mountains.

Ein Schrei der Freiheit! 

(lk) Symmetrie im Wald. 

My friends and I went to Haeinsa temple expecting to find a place to stay in the nearby town. When asking someone at the temple for directions, in a misunderstanding they directed us the the temple stay office. We had not planned on a temple stay and did not reserve any rooms. When the person in charge of temple stays asked we had made reservations, we said no and we were looking for a hotel. She immediately replied saying that since it was the holiday, their regular program was not running and as a result the temple had spare rooms if we chose to stay there. We jumped at the chance as soon as we learned of the opportunity.

We then were shown our rooms, separating boys and girls. The accommodations were more than we expected. There were two bathrooms, multiple sheets and pillows, showers, and the rooms themselves were fairly large. We expected something more humble, more similar to a monk's quarters.  I could not help but feel the rooms were almost too accommodating, yet I was glad simply to be spending the night in a Buddhist temple, especially one as old as Haeinsa.

Hier zu sehen ein Mönch, der das Gebet mit mit der großen Trommel eröffnet. Soweit ich mich erinnere, wird wohl mit dieser zuerst die Natur erweckt, das heißt Tiere und Pflanzen. Anschließend wird ein großes Becken angeschlagen, womit die Verbindung von "Geist" und Mensch hergestellt wird. Abschließend wird noch der Innenraum eines Holzfisches zum erklingen gebracht, der wohl für die Meerestiere steht. Aber für all das lege ich jetzt besser mal nicht meine Hand ins Feuer. Oooh, meine Erinnerung ist leider so schlecht...

 We woke up at 3:20 A.M. to see the playing of the Dharma drum and the ringing of the bell. Two monks sat on a bench next to the drum. One by one they stood and played the drum. One would play between three and five minutes and they would alternate between each other. Both monks would have very different rhythms, with one monk moving to the right and the replacement player beginning to play to his left. The right would step off and the new player would center themselves. After ten or fifteen minutes, the monks would finish with the Dharma drum and move to the bell. 

            As instructed, we left during the playing of the bell and filed into the main building to attend the chanting. Taking the side entrance, we removed our shoes and grabbed a pad to take a seat. While waiting for the monks, we can here the bell ringing in the distance providing an indescribable atmosphere. The low hum resonates through the entire temple as we sit in the presence five golden Buddhas, each more magnificent than the last. The monks eventually enter the building, emerging from the moonlight.

One monk sat in front before the largest Buddha in the center and began playing a gourd shaped instrument made of wood. He and the other monks began to chant in time with the instrument. I could not be sure if this was a prayer or and simply some other practice but it was an incredible sight for someone like me, a westerner that had never experienced anything remotely similar before. Everything made the night incredible: the service, the temple, the early hour. All aspects seemed surreal and like I had truly stepped into a culture completely different from my own.

Following the chanting, which lasted somewhere around thirty or forty minutes, we returned to our rooms and slept until six. It was at this time that breakfast was to be served. To get breakfast, we simply went to the cafeteria on site. Once arriving at the cafeteria, temple stay guests must use a separate entrance than the monks. It was hard to tell if they ate the same meal as us, but whether or not the food was the same, what was served to temple guests was all allowed to be eaten under a Buddhist monk's restrictions. Mostly consisting of simple vegetables, the food lacked any sort of meat, chemicals, and artificial ingredients. Generally, when a food lacks these three ingredients, I do not hold much hope for its taste. Though, the cooks, some of which were monks, managed to make an incredible meal out of so little. It was the best meal I'd had in Korea at that time. They had dishes such as seaweed, bean sprout soup, and soy potatoes. One thing that amazed me was my mother makes these potatoes back home from vegetarian cookbook with recipes from around the world. The amazing part was how close my mother's potatoes taste to the real thing! I quite proud of her to be honest.

            We did as we were told and dined in silence. While at first that seemed awkward, it was actually  nice as we grew used to it. We managed to appreciate each others' company without talking. Without feeling the need to communicate, it allowed us to focus on the task and hand. The food almost tasted better by simply putting complete focus on it, rather than the social aspect of eating together. We had a total of five meals at Haeinsa temple and they were all very delicious and enjoyable.

            Once the scheduled events at the temple were completed. We took advantage of the beautiful setting and hiked a few of the surrounding mountains. Being the overzealous type, naturally we ventured to the tallest one in the area first. Taking about three hours to reach the peak, the hike was exhausting. Despite exhaustion, we were able to appreciate the beautiful setting for the entire climb to the top. Streams frequently cut the path as we crossed them with fallen logs or hopped across on stones. With thick patches of trees followed by sudden clearings into bamboo and tall grass, it is impossible to not appreciate the natural beauty of the area.

            Once we finally reached the peak, it seemed as though we walked the entire day. Even with the time and energy it took, it was easily worth the effort. From the mountaintop we could see for what seemed like an endless distance. We realized just how far we had come seeing the temple from that height. The buildings were far in the distance and all that was visible for miles was simply mountains. It was truly beautiful and brought a relaxing feeling of isolation, yet not completely cut of from the modern world.

(suh) Have a break. Have a sip of the holy water. Oder wie manch anderer wohl zu kommentieren meinte: "Lucas, ist das ein altes kommunistisches Relikt?" 

Auf dem Weg nach oben sind wir dann auf diesen netten Man gestoßen. Während wir in Daegu manchmal mit der englischen Kommunikation hin und wieder unsere Schwierigkeiten haben, scheint das inmitten der rar bewohnten Gebieten der Berge kein Problem zu sein. Es stellte sich heraus, dass er Jahre lang Professor für International Relations an der National University Seoul war und nun für hier zum Meditieren zurück gekommen ist. (Er hat uns außerdem erzählt, dass er hier schon einmal 10 Jahre in Folge meditiert hatte.) Jedenfalls war das eine sehr nette Begegnung und es sollte auch nicht die einzige des Tages bleiben. Beim Abstieg trafen wir auf eine Schwedin mit chinesischen Vorfahren. Sie kam nach Gayasan um hier eine Meditationsausbildung zu starten. So freundlich und großherzig hier alle sind, wurden wir schließlich nicht nur mit selbst gemachten Dobogi überhäuft, sondern auch gleich zum Abendessen und anschließenden Kaffee eingeladen. Das hat am späten Abend unseren Magen sehr erfreut, der nach dem buddhistischen Mittagessen um 11:40 Uhr geradezu nach Nahrung geschrien hat. Ach diese lieben, großzügigen Leute..

            Such a remarkable place is perfect for a temple, but I can't help but wonder how difficult its construction must have been in 802 when it was originally built. Just reaching the temple's location can  be difficult by car in modern day, so I can only imagine the task of retrieving building materials on foot in the time of its construction. The temple deserves a certain level of appreciation for its construction alone, minus its significance or the fact that it contains an UNESCO World Heritage site.

Haeinsa temple houses one of the most significant remaining Buddhist artifacts in Korea, the Tripitaka Koreana. Held in buildings separate from the rest of the temple, the 81,350 wooden blocks are held in special chambers. In each chamber stands multiple bookcases, on the shelves lie the blocks of the Tripitaka Koreana. The room is specially built to preserve the delicate wooden panels to stand the test of time and weather. Specifically sized and placed windows circulate air, sorting out wind and regulated temperature. 

I could not help but stand in awe at the architecture, much less the Tripitaka Koreana itself. I still have trouble grasping how exactly the chambers preserve to blocks, but the blocks themselves are the most amazing part.

Each block in the Tripitaka Koreana is made of wood soaked in the sea for three years to increase resistance and durability. The wood is cut into blocks and then hand chiseled. Painstaking, the Chinese characters were carved in relief. There is not a single mistake in the 81,350 block set. The sheer amount of effort put into this one work is inconceivable. What makes it even more astonishing is the fact that is the second set. The first Tripitaka Koreana was destroyed in the Mongol invasion.

            

My journey to Haeinsa was a fantastic experience. Haeinsa temple was the first real ancient Asian architecture I'd seen since my arrival in South Korea and I'm sure the experience will stick with me forever. Attending the monks' morning chanting, viewing Korea from the top of a beautiful mountain, and seeing an amazing Buddhist artifact all led to an unforgettable Choseuk holiday. 

Vor den Toren der Tripitaka Koreana. Der Buddhistische Kanon wurde im 13. Jahrhundert in Hanja niedergeschrieben und keines der 52 382 960 weist auch nur einen Fehler auf.


Auf dem Weg zur höchsten Spitze von Gayasan

Wer rastet, der rostet. Diese zwei faulen Säcke haben schon zu Anfang eine Pause nach der anderen gemacht. ..naja, offen gestanden, waren sie nur so freundlich auf mich zu warten, da ich - und diesmal ist das kein Witz - mit meinen kurzen Beinen und den hohen Steinen und Stufen nur mühsam hinterher kam.

(lk) jhljcxsdladudhw uawsdöwud ajdhwlhdwliuedw
lol
rofl

(suh) Während es im Tal noch sommerlich warm war, wurde es nach oben hin immer kühler. Dafür präsentierte sich hier uns schon die Natur in ihren herbstlichen Farben.Oh der Herbst ist echt eine Wonne in Korea! Daran könnte ich mich hier echt gewöhnen.. 

Ganz nach oben haben wir es ja noch nicht geschafft, aber der Ausblick lohnt sich schon jetzt.

Strahlekinder

Ein bisschen höher müssen Sie schon noch Herr Downs..

Glaubt nicht, dass das jetzt schon ganz ganz oben wäre..

Dem ganz ganz Oben nun wieder ein Stückchen näher..

 ... und noch ein Stückchen.
Man möge bitte nicht denken, dass das nicht anstrengend gewesen wäre. Zumal ich noch nicht einmal Wanderschuhe hatte, lediglich meine treuen Chucks mussten herhalten, wobei mich all die Koreaner in ihrer Hightech-rundum-und-superfunktionalen Wanderausrüstung nur verständnislos angeschaut haben. 
Achja, man möge doch auch bitte nicht denken, wir wären intelligent gewesen. Auf unserer ca. 8 Stunden Wandertour haben nämlich wie am Tag zuvor nichts zu Essen mitgenommen und wie lange unsere 2 Liter Wasser bei 4 Leuten gereicht haben, kann man sich womöglich denken. Also jeder andere kann das wohl, wir  allerdings nicht..

Über den Wolken..

Der Ausblick war einfach unvergleichlich! Leider kann man das weder in Worte fassen, noch irgendwie auf Bildern realistisch festhalten.

von links: Susan, Carson, Mai Linh, Lucas

Wer hoch hinaus ist, kann ganz schnell tief fallen.. 
Das war ganz schön halsbrecherisch steinig. 

Zurück im Dorf haben wir die übrigen zwei Nächte in einem Motel geschlafen. Noch einmal nachts um 3 aufzustehen, schien uns dann doch für unsere Feiertage ein wenig zu anstrengend.

Eng aneinander gekuschelt haben wir gemeinsam in einem Raum nach traditioneller Weise auf dem Boden geschlafen. Der Raum bot uns den luxuriösen Komfort von: Nichts. Außer einen Schrank  voll mit Decken und netter Weise noch einen Fernseher ist das Zimmer vollkommen Leer. Ausschließlich eine große Liegefläche, die wir nach unserer langen Wandertour in Gayasan so gemütlich und komfortabel wie ein Himmelbett war. 

 (lk) Doller Wasserfall

Mai, unsere fake Koreanerin, hat Susan und Carson in der Hand. Sie versucht sie aufzufressen. 

Beeindruckende Fotomontage von Lucas Knorr. 

Es wundert einen nicht, wenn die für diesen Flaschenhaufen verantwortlichen Koreaner nicht mehr wussten, wo sie ihn hinterlassen hatten. Bei der Menge Soju könnte ich mich auch an nichts mehr erinnern.